Patinas & Protection

High-carbon steel develops a natural patina—shades of grey, blue, brown, and black—as it interacts with the world. This patina isn’t just aesthetic; it acts as a barrier against red or yellow rust. Many KH Knifeworks blades are finished with a forced patina (via acid wash) to accelerate this protective process.

We recommend keeping your blade lightly waxed at all times. Wax outperforms oil for daily carry: it stays where it’s applied, doesn’t soak into clothing, and avoids harsh odors.

A personal favorite? ChapStick. It’s affordable, effective, compact, and widely available. In our testing—even in humid climates—it holds up remarkably well.

If red rust does appear, don’t panic. Gently remove it using fine steel wool or a baking soda slurry. Once clean, dry thoroughly and reapply your protective wax or oil.

Note: Stainless steel knives require similar care, though they're naturally more resistant to corrosion.

Sharpening

Even “super steels” dull with real-world use. No edge lasts forever. Maintenance is the key to lasting performance.

We favor a toothy working edge: about 600–800 grit, then stropped. It bites deep on pull cuts and works well across diverse materials. High-polish edges may look great, but they can skate across tougher mediums before engaging.

This isn’t the only way to sharpen—it’s just the method that best supports the way KH Knifeworks blades are designed to work.

For blades with recurves—like the Revenant or Last Stand—sharpening takes more finesse. Flat stones won’t reach the inner curve. Instead, use a ceramic rod, the rounded off corner of a flat stone, or, if you’re confident, a belt sharpener like those made by Work Sharp.

If your edge needs a reset, we’re here for that too. KH Knifeworks offers free re-sharpening—just cover shipping to and from the shop.